A Guide to September's Birthstone: Sapphire

A Guide to September's Birthstone: Sapphire

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Introduction to Sapphire

Sapphire is one of the world's most popular and prized gemstones. A lot of this has to do with its physical properties - it's part of the corundum family which makes it second only to diamond on the Mohs scale of hardness. It is also a highly durable gemstone, part of the reason it's a firm favourite with jewellers and an excellent choice for jewellery. These facts, combined with its rarity and its astonishing array of colours, has cemented sapphire's place as one of the 'Big Three' coloured gemstones. 

For most, the word 'sapphire' conjures a rich, deep blue. Those sapphires that have that blue colour and appearance that's often described as 'velvety' are highly popular and tend to be amongst the most valuable. However, sapphire occurs in almost every colour - except red (more on that later). As well as the classic blue, you'll find jewellery set with sapphires in vibrant pinks, yellows, violets, greens, and the rare orange-pink padparadscha amongst other colours. This offers an incredible amount of versatility, allowing you to find a colour personal to you.

In terms of their use in jewellery, sapphires have a fascinating history. They've found their place on royal crowns and famous engagement rings - no article on sapphires would be complete without mention of the sapphire chosen by Princess Diana and now worn by the Princess of Wales. 

Those lucky enough to have a birthday in September have sapphire as their birthstone. The gemstone traditionally symbolises wisdom, nobility, loyalty and truth, making it perfect for a meaningful gift.

In this guide, we'll take you through everything you need to know before buying or commissioning a piece of sapphire jewellery. We often get asked how to judge quality and value, if sapphires are treated, where they come from and how to look after them - we'll go through all of this and more.

What colours do sapphires come in?

Blue Sapphire

The first colour to mention, of course, is blue - a deep rich blue is probably the colour that comes to mind when you think of sapphires. Something like the blue in the Cassie Pendant.

The most historically prized colour for sapphire is a rich, velvety blue through to violet-blue with saturation that can be described as strong and even across the gemstone. These vivid mid-tones can be significantly more valuable than paler or darker stones. 

However, sapphire has plenty more to offer than just blue. There are a whole range of colours that cater for different tastes and budgets. Here are some of the options you might not have been aware of.

Pair of silver hoop earrings with green sapphires on a white background

Green Sapphire

Echoing colours found in nature, these soft greens through to deep rich greens often suit organic designs and are popular with those looking for something unique and distinctive.

Silver pendant with molten texture set with orange sapphire

Orange sapphire

Orange sapphires are often warm and vibrant with a range of hues from soft peachy tones through to deep, fiery orange. They're a popular choice for those after something a little different but still with plenty of colour. These gemstones sit close to the valuable padparadscha sapphires on the colour spectrum but don't display the blend of pink and orange.

Bi-Colour Sapphire

These gemstones contain two distinct hues within a single stone. The result can be eye catching and these stones are becoming increasingly popular with those looking for something unique. The sapphire set in the centre of this ring has a band of yellow through the green on either side.

Pink Sappire

These stones come in soft light pinks, bright hot pinks and everything in between. Often linked with romance, they're an increasingly popular choice for engagement rings.

Yellow Sapphire

Yellow Sapphire: Due to the conditions required to form yellow sapphires, these stones are often found in larger sizes than their blue counterparts. They're usually valued at a lower price-per-carat too.

Purple & Violet Sapphire

These gemstones are often very striking with a colour between blue and pink combined with sapphire's vitreous lustre. 

White (or colourless) Sapphire

Corundum is colourless in its purest form, creating these sparkly stones that were often used as a diamond alternative in the past. This has become less common as lab-grown diamond technology has developed.

Padparadscha Sapphire

These highly prized and rare pink-orange gemstones are among the most valuable of all sapphires. The name is derived from the Sinhalese word to describe the colour of the lotus flower.

Colour-change Sapphire

These rare gemstones shift hue depending on the light source. A stone might appear blue outdoors in natural light while appearing purple once placed under artificial light. The greater the shift, the higher the value.

What about red?

The only colour sapphire doesn't come in is red. When trace amounts of chromium replace a relatively small number of aluminium atoms in corundum's chemical structure and the gemstone appears red, it's classified as ruby.

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How to judge sapphire quality

You've probably heard of the 4Cs in relation to diamonds - colour, clarity, cut and carat. These four factors also apply when judging the quality and value of sapphires but different levels of importance are given to each. Even just a brief overview of what to look for with each of these factors can give you a lot more confidence when finding the perfect sapphire to purchase. 

Colour

Let's start with the most important factor when judging a sapphire's value: colour. 

When looking at gemstones, gemmologists will talk about hue, tone and saturation.

  • Hue - the gemstone's characteristic colour (blue, pink, orange, etc.)
  • Tone - how light or dark the colour is
  • Saturation - the intensity of colour (is it free of undertones or greys or browns)

The colour of the most valuable sapphires will combine a pure hue with a medium to medium-dark tone and strong saturation. 

This doesn't necessarily mean that these colours are 'best' for you - this will just help you judge the monetary value of the stone and help you understand why one blue sapphire might be much more expensive than another blue sapphire of the same size. The most 'valuable' stone to you might be much more down to personal preference or what combinations of hues, tones and saturations suit you best in the lighting you'll wear it in most.

Clarity

Almost every natural sapphire contains features often referred to as 'clarity characteristics'. Examples of these features include small mineral inclusions, colour zoning or 'feathers'.

Generally, the more clarity characteristics a sapphire contains and the more visible they are, the less valuable the stone becomes. However, it's important to note that this isn't always the case - the 'velvety' appearance of some of the most valuable blue sapphires is caused by tiny inclusions scattering light in a particular way. Other inclusions, arranged in a particular way can produce an affect known as asterism - a star effect. These sapphires are often cut as cabochons to show off the effect. 

Clarity characteristics can sometimes add a whole lot of personality to a sapphire but it's important to make sure that they don't compromise the durability of the stone. 

Cut

Skilled cutters will examine each individual stone and decide how to cut it based on how to best show off its colour, while retaining as much of the stone as possible and producing the best interaction with light. 

When looking to purchase a sapphire, look for symmetry (usually) and an even display of light and colour across the stone. When you tilt a stone in good light, it should become obvious if there are any dull or uneven spots.

Different styles of cut offer different things. You might like the sparkle that the brilliant cut offers or you might prefer a step cut that really shows off the colour of a stone. Cabochons are particularly popular with 'star sapphires' and can produce a really striking effect.

Carat

Larger sapphires are rarer than smaller ones, so they quickly become more valuable the more they weigh. Remember that different colours are rarer than others, so this plays a big role too. You will generally pay more per-carat for a blue sapphire than a yellow one. 

Cut comes into play here too. A well cut sapphire that weighs less than a poorly cut sapphire of a comparative quality is usually the better choice in terms of appearance. Cutters sometimes use tricks to retain as much weight as possible when cutting gemstones, sometimes at the detriment of its colour or display of light - be wary of this when choosing between sapphires of different weights.

Are sapphires treated?

If you're considering purchasing a piece of sapphire jewellery, it's important to know whether or not it has been treated. You'll find that most sapphires have been treated and this will have an impact on their value.

It's also important to know in case you ever take the piece to a jeweller for repair. Jewellers will treat sapphires differently depending on what treatments they have or haven't had. 

As untreated sapphires are rarer than treated sapphires they are more valuable. If you are considering purchasing an untreated sapphire that is of significant value, it's certainly worth asking the jeweller if the stone has an independent laboratory report and to ask them to arrange certification if not. This report helps confirm that the sapphire is untreated and adds value. 

Heat treatment 

Most of the sapphires being sold today have been heat treated, including some of the fine-quality stones available. This is a widely accepted practice that can help enhance a sapphire's colour and clarity. 

Lattice diffusion treatment 

This process diffuses an element through a gemstone with heat and chemicals to artificially change its colour. This can result in eye-catching saturated colours but reduces the value of the stone significantly. If you think a sapphire's colour looks more vivid and saturated than others at a comparable price, it is certainly worth asking about treatments.

Sometimes the treatment doesn't penetrate far into the stone, which is important to bear in mind if recutting or repolishing is ever required. 

Fracture filling 

Some sapphires might have surface-reaching fractures that have been filled with a glass filler to help improve the appearance of the gemstone. These sapphires will need to be treated with more care than untreated sapphires or those that have undergone the treatments above.

Natural vs. lab-grown sapphires

Customers often ask about lab-grown sapphires, especially given the vastly increased number of lab-grown diamonds that have recently come into the market. They want to know if sapphires can also be lab-grown, what the difference is between lab-grown and natural, and how to spot them.

What is a lab-grown sapphire?

Lab-grown and natural sapphires have the same chemical, physical and optical properties - the difference is that natural sapphires are formed in the earth over millions of years, while a lab-grown sapphire can be made in a laboratory in as little as a few hours to a few weeks, depending on the method used.

It's important to highlight the difference between lab-grown sapphires (sometimes described as synthetic sapphires) and 'simulants'. These are materials such as glass or cubic zirconia which have been made to look like sapphire but do not share their chemical, physical or optical properties.

How can you tell the difference between lab-grown and natural sapphire?

The way to get a definitive answer is to send your sapphire to a gemmological laboratory. However, the inclusions in the gemstone can give you a big clue as to whether or not getting it tested might be wise. Natural sapphires almost always contain clarity characteristics (as discussed above in the 'Clarity' section). Meanwhile, lab-grown sapphires are much more likely to be free of inclusions and have uniform colour saturation.

How do they differ in value?

The value of gemstones is decided by lots of factors but one of the most important is rarity. Lab-grown sapphires can be produced consistently and cheaply in laboratories in large quantities and are much less rare than natural sapphires. They typically cost a small fraction of the price of a comparable natural sapphire and they don't hold any investment value. However, as they share natural sapphire's remarkable physical and optical properties, they are a great option for smaller budgets - it's just very important that you know what you're buying.

Where do sapphires come from?

You might be curious to know where the sapphire you're purchasing came from or you might have a special reason for wanting a sapphire from Sri Lanka or Montana, for example. For collectors, origin can be one of the most important factors behind their purchase of a specific stone. It can have an effect on the value of the stone, how rare it might be and offers more depth to the gemstone's story.

Here are some of the places sapphires are found and what makes the gemstones in each of these places special:

Kashmir 

Kashmir sapphires are some of the most highly prized of all. They come from a deposit in the Himalayas discovered in the 1880s and have a distinctive appearance. Their particular velvety cornflower-blue can be mesmerising, even in low light. The primary deposits were mined very quickly, so genuine Kashmir sapphires are very rare and valuable - those stones with lab reports confirming origin command the highest prices. 

Myanmar

The Mogok Valley in Myanmar has been one of the world's most famous sources of sapphires and rubies for centuries. The most sought after sapphires found here are an intense royal blue that might be exactly the colour you think of when the word 'sapphire' comes to mind. Some of the finest and most historically significant sapphires have been found in Myanmar and high-quality untreated gemstones from this source can be very valuable.

Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a source for a wide array of gemstones, including many sapphires in a range of colours and some of the largest fine sapphires ever found. Blue sapphires from Sri Lanka tend to be lighter and brighter than those Kashmir sapphires or those from Myanmar. There's also a wide range in quality, with some exceptional sapphires having been found here to a wide range of much more accessible gemstones. 

Madagascar 

More recently, deposits have been discovered in Madagascar and this source now accounts for a large share of the world's sapphires, including some fine blues.

Montana

Montana sapphires offer something a little different and are becoming increasingly popular. They're famous for their softer blues through to teals and greens rather than what might be considered a more 'classic' royal blue. Sapphires sourced from Yogo Gulch are known for their natural colour, often requiring no heat treatment.

Sapphires vs. other blue gemstones

Blue sapphires are a timeless choice for jewellery, including engagement rings. However, high quality stones in highly sought after blues come with a high price tag. You might be wondering what other blue gemstones are available and whether they might be a good alternative. Here are some examples to help you feel confident in your choice.

Aquamarine

These gemstones are often a paler blue than sapphire and there are some beautiful aquamarines available, generally at a more affordable price point. However, they aren't as durable as sapphire and some of their physical properties can make them a riskier choice for rings, particularly those intended for everyday wear. It's a variety of beryl and is 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale - making it more prone to scratching than sapphire (which is a 9 on the scale).

Blue Topaz

Blue topaz is a much more affordable option. Most of the blue topaz found in jewellery has been treated to achieve a vivid blue - naturally occurring topaz in these sorts of saturations is very rare. It is not typically chosen for fine jewellery as it doesn't have the same richness to its colour as a gemstone like sapphire. While it is fairly hard (sitting at 8 on the Mohs scale), it isn't particularly tough, meaning accidentally knocking it on a surface might cause it to crack. 

Opal and Turquoise

You might want to look at something a little different, particularly if gemstones cut as cabochons have caught your eye. Opal and turquoise can both be beautiful and distinctive and are great choices for occasional-wear pendants or earrings. Due to their physical properties (they're much more prone to scratching and chipping than sapphire), they're not well-suited for pieces like rings or those intended for everyday wear.

Sapphires vs. rubies 

As mentioned above, sapphires come in almost every colour - except red. Rubies are also part of the corundum family but different trace elements in corundum's chemical structure can produce different colours. For example, traces of iron and titanium can produce blue, while chromium produces red and the gemstone is classified as ruby.

Are rubies or sapphires more valuable?

The quality of rubies and sapphires is judged based on very similar factors - they share the same mineral identity after all. However, rubies are generally the rarer of the two, particularly in larger sizes and higher qualities. Exceptional rubies are often found at the very top of the gemstone market. They can be rivalled, however, by the rarest sapphires such as untreated Kashmir blues or an exceptional padparadscha. 

Learn more about ruby

If you're curious to learn more about ruby, we also have a Ruby Guide which covers everything from the gemstone's origins to how to judge quality and value - worth a read if you're weighing the two against each other.  

Ruby Guide

Are sapphires a good choice for an engagement ring?

If you're looking for an alternative to the traditional diamond for an engagement ring, sapphire should be high on your list of contenders for reasons that go beyond how they look.

Sapphires are great for daily wear

An engagement ring is usually designed for daily wear, making durability a real factor in your choice of gemstone. Not only is sapphire particularly hard, beaten to the top spot on the Mohs scale only by diamond, it's also very tough with no cleavage (a tendency to break when struck). Rings that are worn every day will inevitably get knocked every now and then, so sapphire's physical properties help make it a great choice.

An established engagement ring tradition

The tradition for diamond engagement rings doesn't date back as far as you might think. While there have been a few notable examples of diamond engagement rings in royal families over the centuries, it wasn't until De Beers' iconic "A Diamond is Forever" marketing slogan in the 1940s that diamond engagement rings were firmly cemented as the 'traditional' choice. Before this, coloured gemstones were the more popular choice - and with the shift in the market caused by the influx of lab-grown diamonds, another shift might be happening.

More people are enquiring about alternatives to diamond and discovering that sapphires have a long established tradition for engagement rings. They were the choice of many European royals throughout the centuries and still are - confirmed by the ring worn today by Catherine, Princess of Wales. 

A personal choice 

As sapphire occurs in such a wide range of colours, an engagement ring designed around one of these gemstones can be as traditional or unique as you like. You might love both the colour and sentiment of a classic, traditional vivid royal blue, or a pink, green or even yellow might speak more to your personality and story.

Unlike diamond, where the differences between stones can be tricky to spot to the inexpert eye, sapphires can have drastically different personalities. This is exactly where a bespoke setting, built around a particular stone, tends to create the most meaningful result.

How to choose the right sapphire for you

With so many options out there with different colours, origins and quality in mind, sapphire gives you the opportunity to find a stone perfectly suited to your style and story. You'll also want to consider which colours and cuts suit you best - for example, which undertones suit your skin tone best. 

Decide what matters most to you

There's no 'right way' to choose your perfect gemstone but thinking about what you value most can help get you started.

  • Rarity and origin: If these things are high on your list, you might want to look for untreated, certified stones from sources such as Kashmir, Myanmar or Yogo Gulch.
  • Colour: If colour is your priority, then the huge range of heat treated sapphires in all sorts of colours is available to you at a more reasonable price than the untreated options.
  • Individuality: Perhaps you want to find something unique and are drawn to an unusual colour. Pink, padparadscha, or the teal-green sapphires from Montana might be the place to start.
  • Durability: If this is the priority, any good quality, well-cut sapphire should tick this box.

Trust your eye and your instinct

While there are some practical things to consider when purchasing a sapphire - making sure there aren't large inclusions that compromise the durability of the stone or that you're paying the right price for a treated stone, for example - the final decision is often emotional. The sapphire that is right for you is the one that really catches your eye and produces an enduring emotional response. 

Caring for your sapphire jewellery

One of the advantages of choosing sapphire for a piece of jewellery is that it is very low maintenance. As it's both hard and tough, you won't have to worry too much about occasionally knocking it by accident and it's very quick and easy to give it a clean at home to remove any dirt and restore its sparkle. Here are a few tips to keep your sapphires looking their best.

Everyday cleaning

Sapphire can start to look a bit dull over time simply due to contact with things like hand lotions, soap or even the oils from your skin. You can remove this with a mild dish soap, warm water and a soft toothbrush. If you can reach the bottom of the stone through the setting and give it a gentle scrub, this will make a huge difference.

Things to avoid

  • Hot tubs and swimming pools: While your sapphires won't be affected by the chlorine and chemicals in hot tubs and pools, the metal setting might be - so it's best to remove your jewellery before getting in.
  • Household cleaning products: Again, remove your jewellery before using any harsh chemicals - this is more to protect the metal settings than the sapphires themselves.
  • Direct impact: While sapphires are very hard and tough, they can chip if subjected to a hard direct impact. It's best to remove sapphire jewellery before doing any heavy manual work or contact sports.

How to store your sapphire jewellery

It's best to store your sapphire pieces in their own boxes, pouches or lined compartments of a jewellery box. This protects them from being scratched by any diamonds you might have and, in turn, stops your sapphires from damaging any softer gemstones in your jewellery box. 

When to get your sapphire jewellery checked by a professional jeweller

It's a good idea to get pieces you wear every day checked roughly once a year. Even if you don't see any damage to the sapphire itself, the claws or setting holding the stone in place can gradually wear, leaving you at risk of losing the stone. This is also a good opportunity for a professional to clean areas that you can't reach at home and to give the metal components a good polish. 

Remember to let the jeweller know if you're aware that your sapphire is untreated, has been fracture filled or has undergone lattice diffusion treatment.

For more on jewellery care, see our comprehensive guide.

Jewellery Care Guide

Commissioning a bespoke sapphire piece with Kate Archer

Sapphire is a gemstone that presents endless opportunities due to its range in colour, origin, character and meaning - making it perfect for a bespoke piece. If you'd like to find out more about our bespoke process and find out how to get started, head over to our bespoke page and, when you're ready, get in touch.

Bespoke

Sapphire FAQs

Is sapphire a good investment?

Most sapphire jewellery is bought and worn for its beauty. However, if you're looking for a sapphire as an investment, you'll want to look for rarer stones of fine quality from sources such as Kashmir or Burma - if it's untreated, that will add extra value. You'll want to make sure the origin and treatment status is confirmed in a certificate from a gemmological laboratory.

Can I wear sapphire every day?

Yes, absolutely. Sapphire is both hard (9 on the Mohs scale) and tough (no distinct cleavage), making it one of the most durable gemstones and well suited for use in everyday jewellery, including engagement rings. We recommend removing your sapphire jewellery for heavy manual work, contact sports and when you're using harsh chemicals to keep it looking its best for a lifetime.

How do I know if my sapphire is real?

The way to find out definitively is to get an independent gemmological certification from a recognised laboratory. They will be able to tell you whether your sapphire is natural or lab-grown and will identify treatments and assess origin. A sapphire is more likely to be lab grown if it has no inclusions visible under magnification. 

Is a heat-treated sapphire still a "real" sapphire?

Yes - heat treatment is a widely accepted treatment applied to most of the natural sapphires on the market today - including many of the fine-quality stones. The treatment enhances the colour and clarity already present in the stone.

What's the difference between a sapphire and a lab-grown sapphire?

They are chemically, physically and optically identical - the difference is their origin. Natural sapphires are formed over millennia in the earth, while lab-grown sapphires can be made in as little as a few hours in a lab. Lab-grown sapphires are much less expensive due to their abundance and the relatively cheap cost to produce.

What is the most valuable colour of sapphire?

Traditionally, the most sought after sapphires are a vivid medium to medium dark blue with strong, even saturation. Rare, fancy colours can also command extremely high prices that compete with the finest blues, such as padparadscha sapphires with their pink-orange hue.

How can I tell where a sapphire is from?

The only definitive way to confirm origin is to have the sapphire examined by a gemmological laboratory.

What's the difference between sapphire and ruby?

Both are the same mineral - corundum. Trace elements give them their different colours - ruby is red corundum and every other colour is classified as sapphire. They share the same properties and are judged by very similar quality standards - though ruby is rarer, particularly large rubies and higher quality stones.

How should I clean my sapphire jewellery at home?

A soft toothbrush along with warm water and a mild dish soap will lift any grease and dirt off your sapphire and restore its sparkle. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner at home, avoid using this unless you know your sapphire's treatment history and are sure it's safe to be used - consider taking it to a professional jeweller instead. 

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