The Complete Ruby Guide: Everything You Need to Know

June 27, 2025

Introduction to Ruby

Those lucky enough to be born in July, have the ‘king of precious gemstones’, the ruby, as their birthstone. These mesmerising gemstones have fascinated many cultures throughout the centuries, inspiring legends and stories. Traditionally associated with passion, protection and vitality, ruby has long been one of the most prized gemstones.

Ruby is a variety of the mineral corundum, which means only diamond is higher on the Mohs scale of hardness. As well as being harder than most gemstones and therefore fairly resistant to scratching, it is also a very tough gemstone, meaning it will usually stand up to everyday knocks without chipping and cracking - making it a great choice for fine jewellery, including engagement rings.

Corundum occurs in a whole spectrum of colours, and the trace elements present during a crystal's formation determine which colour it becomes. The trace element responsible for ruby's rich red is chromium - the only colour of corundum classified as ruby. All other gemstones that are varieties of corundum in colours other than red are classified as sapphires.

Ruby's rarity, particularly larger fine stones, means that exceptional rubies can command some of the highest prices of any coloured gemstone, including fine sapphires and emeralds.

In this guide, we'll take you through everything you need to know before buying or commissioning a piece of ruby jewellery - colour, clarity, origin, treatments, lab-grown alternatives and how to look after your rubies.

What Colours do Rubies Come In?

As mentioned above - ruby is always red. But within that red, there's real variation and colour plays a huge part in a ruby's value.

'Pigeon Blood' Ruby

As soon as you start researching rubies, the term 'pigeon blood' will start to appear - this is the most sought-after and valuable shade of ruby. It can be described as a pure, vivid red with a hint of blue-ish purple. The most valuable stones will have a strong, even saturation and can seem to glow from within.

The term originated in Myanmar's Mogok region where many of these rubies were found. The term is now used more broadly for any ruby that can be described as this colour, regardless of where it was mined.

Purplish-red Ruby

These stones have a more noticeable violet undertone than pigeon blood rubies and are slightly less intense but are still highly prized and valuable.

Red Ruby

Rubies that are a strong, saturated red without a noticeable secondary hue are still considered to be excellent quality and highly desirable.

Orangey-red Ruby

When rubies have a secondary hue more towards orange on the spectrum, they are generally considered less valuable than the purer reds or those with a slight purplish undertone. However, they can still be beautiful stones and some people prefer this orangey colour.

Pinkish-red Ruby

This is where the definition of ruby vs sapphire can become tricky and gemmological laboratories don't always agree on where the line between a pinkish-red ruby and a pink sapphire sits. As a general rule, if a stone is light enough to be described as pink rather than red, it will usually be sold as a pink sapphire.

What are Star Rubies?

Star rubies display a six-rayed star effect when they're cut as cabochons - this is known as asterism and these stones are often sought after by collectors. The effect is caused by fine, needle-like inclusions arranged in a specific way.

Where do Rubies Come From?

Origin can also have a huge impact on a ruby's value and some collectors look for stones from particular sources. Here are some of the most important sources and what makes each important.

Myanmar (Burma)

Myanmar is at the top of the list of historically important ruby sources, particularly the Mogok Valley. This is where some of the finest rubies ever found have come from. This is the source of the original 'pigeon blood' description for the most valuable rubies. Fine, untreated rubies from Myanmar can fetch among the highest per-carat prices of almost any gemstone - particularly those with gemmological laboratory certification confirming origin.

Mozambique

Many of the fine-quality rubies on the market today come from the deposits discovered in northeastern Mozambique in 2009. Some of these stones rival the colour of the rubies found in Myanmar.

Thailand

Thailand is another important historical ruby source. Rubies have been found here and Thailand is also an important trading centre for the gemstone. The rubies found here are generally slightly darker in tone and have a more brownish-red hue than Burmese rubies. Thai rubies are becoming increasingly rare as many of the primary mines are now depleted.

Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a famous source of many types of gemstone, particularly sapphires. The red variety of corundum is also found here - though you'd typically expect to find lighter and pinker tones than those found in Myanmar or Mozambique.

Madagascar

Another relatively recent source of rubies is Madagascar. The rubies found here are in a whole range of quality, from commercial stones through to fine rubies in rich colours.

Vietnam

Vietnam also produces rubies in excellent colours - particularly those from the Luc Yen region which are sometimes comparable to Burmese rubies. However, they tend to contain more visible inclusions.

How to Judge Ruby Quality

You might have heard of the 4Cs - colour, clarity, cut and carat - particularly in reference to diamonds. Gemmologists use these same factors to judge other gemstones, however, they look for slightly different things from stone to stone. Here's what they're looking for in ruby.

Colour

This is usually the most important factor for ruby - at least when determining its value.

Colour can be broken down into hue, tone and saturation to better understand what you're looking for.

Hue: The characteristic colour (for ruby, this will be red - however, it can have secondary hues - usually pinks, purples or oranges).

Tone: How light or dark the colour is.

Saturation: This refers to the intensity of the colour - is it a pure colour or does it appear greyish or brownish?

If you're looking for the 'most valuable' rubies, you'll be looking for a combination of a pure, vivid red hue (sometimes with a slight purplish secondary hue) with a medium to medium-dark tone and strong, even saturation.

However, the 'best' ruby for you might not match these characteristics - look for the colour that attracts you most - but it's important to understand why that colour might be worth more or less than a slightly different red.

Clarity

Clarity refers to the internal and surface features - or inclusions and blemishes - present in a gemstone. These can occur naturally as the crystal forms or can be introduced during or after cutting.

It's very unusual to find a ruby with no visible inclusions and these gemstones are very valuable as a result. Most rubies will have some inclusions - how visible these are, the nature of the inclusions and their location in the stone can have a real impact on value. They can also impact the stone's durability.

Some inclusions are actually sought after - as mentioned above, star rubies contain inclusions. Some inclusions can also help light scatter evenly across the stone and create a 'velvety' appearance.

Be cautious of large inclusions that are obvious to the naked eye, or those that reach the surface of the stone. These can make the gemstone more vulnerable to damage.

Cut

A skilled cutter will work with each individual stone to bring out the best in it.

Look for good symmetry and how colour and light appears across the stone - it should be even. If you're looking at a step cut (like an emerald cut), the cutter may have been trying to show off the colour and good clarity. If you're looking at a brilliant cut, pay attention to the extra sparkle and make sure there's balanced display of light. Cabochons should also have an even display of colour and are the cutting style of choice for star rubies to best display the asterism effect.

Carat

Rubies become increasingly rare the larger they get. This means that value increases sharply - not steadily - as carat weight increases. A fine ruby weighing 3 carats will be disproportionately more valuable than several smaller stones that make up the same weight.

As with any gemstone, a well-cut smaller ruby is usually the better choice when compared to a poorly cut larger ruby (of comparable quality). Sometimes cutters prioritise weight retention over the other value factors, so it's worth bearing in mind that bigger is not always better.

Are rubies treated?

Most rubies on the market today have been treated in some way. While this is considered a perfectly acceptable practice, it's important to know if and how a ruby you're purchasing has been treated. This means you can better judge its value and care for it properly.

Heat Treatment

Most rubies on the market today have been heat treated. This is done to improve the colour of the stones and it can also reduce the visibility of some inclusions. You should be able to clean a heat treated ruby at home without any problems with a soft brush and a mild dish soap. If you want to use an ultrasonic cleaner, it's worth having a professional jeweller check the stone first.

Lattice Diffusion

This process introduces heat and chemicals to a stone to improve the colour. Sometimes the colour doesn't penetrate very far into the stone so extra care should be taken if they ever need to be repolished or recut. Rubies that have undergone this process are less valuable than those stones that have simply been heat treated.

Glass and fracture filling

Some rubies that have fractures that reach the surface are filled with a type of glass that will improve the stone's appearance. This treatment can be damaged by an ultrasonic cleaner and chemicals, so these stones should only be cleaned with a soft, damp cloth.

Natural vs. Lab-Grown Rubies

What is a lab-grown ruby?

Lab-grown rubies, or synthetic rubies, share the same chemical, physical and optical properties as natural rubies. The difference is origin - a natural ruby forms in the earth over millions of years, whereas a lab-grown ruby can be created in a laboratory in a few weeks.

It's important to note that lab grown rubies are not 'simulants' - a stone like a red cubic zirconia that has simply been designed to look like a ruby without sharing its properties.

How can you tell if a ruby is lab-grown?

If you're looking for a definitive answer, you'll need to send the stone to a gemmological laboratory. However, there are some things you can look out for.

Natural rubies almost always contain visible inclusions, while lab-grown rubies tend to look much cleaner with very even colour. Depending on how they were made, lab-grown rubies might contain tiny gas bubbles or curved growth lines that look very different to ruby's typical inclusions.

Are lab-grown rubies valuable?

Lab-grown rubies can be created consistently and in relatively large volumes. This means they are far less rare than natural stones and have a significantly reduced price tag with no real investment value.

They do offer the same properties of natural ruby at an accessible price point, making them a sensible option for some designs and budgets - however, it's important to know what you're buying.

Rubies vs. Other Red Gemstones

Fine natural rubies can come with a hefty price tag, so it might be worth weighing up your options if you're working with a budget.

Red Spinel

Red spinel had to come at the top of this list as some of the most famous 'rubies' have since been identified as spinel. Spinel is at 8 on the Mohs scale (compared to ruby's 9) and, unlike ruby, most spinel on the market is untreated.

Garnet

Red garnets are much more affordable than ruby but are less resistant to damage, so aren't as suitable for rings designed to be worn everyday, like engagement rings. They also don't have quite the same intense, saturated red as ruby.

Red Tourmaline

While not quite the same red as ruby, some tourmalines offer vivid red colours that can be very effective in jewellery. Bear in mind that it's quite a bit softer than ruby (7-7.5 on the Mohs scale) and they're more prone to fracturing. They are great choices for pendants and earrings and occasional-wear rings.

Rubies vs. Sapphires

As ruby and sapphire are both varieties of corundum, we're often asked about the difference between the two. They share the same physical properties - the same hardness and toughness - the difference is in the trace elements that gives the different varieties of corundum their colour. The red of ruby is caused by chromium.

Are rubies or sapphires more valuable?

Fine rubies in larger sizes are generally the rarer of the two, which pushes up the price. Exceptional rubies often sell for extremely high prices. However, this can be rivalled by the rarest sapphires - untreated Kashmir blues or exceptional padparadschas, for example.

Are Rubies a Good Choice for an Engagement Ring?

If you're drawn to colour rather than a traditional diamond for an engagement ring, ruby has a lot to offer beyond its striking appearance.

Rubies are great for daily wear

Second only to diamond on the Mohs scale of hardness and with no cleavage, ruby is both hard and tough - this makes it a genuinely practical choice for a ring that's designed to be worn everyday and prone to occasional knocks.

A meaningful choice

The colour of ruby is rich in symbolism and has real presence, making it a distinctive and meaningful choice for an engagement ring. Its association with passion, protection and vitality across many cultures have made it a prized gemstone for centuries.

A striking colour

Red pairs beautifully with the warmth of yellow gold but can also look striking against white gold and platinum. It can be used as a bold centre stone but even as smaller accent stones, ruby can add a huge amount of character to a ring. There's also a huge amount of choice when it comes to colour - whether you prefer lighter pinkish-reds, a pure red or a slight purplish undertone - the different hues can have very different personalities.

How to Choose the Right Ruby for You

So, now you know all about rubies, how do you choose the right one for you?

Decide what matters most to you

Rarity and origin: If this is at the top of your list, look out for untreated, certified stones from Myanmar first.

Colour: Whether you're looking for the most valuable pigeon-blood rubies or a specific red that means something to you, remember that heat-treated stones can offer excellent colour at a more accessible price.

Cut: A smaller well-cut ruby will often outshine a poorly cut larger stone - don't be distracted by higher carat weights if the stone doesn't look as good overall.

Durability: If you're looking for a ruby for everyday wear - for an engagement ring, for example - this is particularly important. Make sure there aren't any large and distracting inclusions, as these might indicate durability issues.

Trust your eye and your instinct

Ultimately, the best ruby for you is the one that catches your eye the most. Once you've ticked off the practical things - such as checking for large inclusions and making sure you've asked about treatments - the best ruby is the one that looks right to you.

How to Look After Rubies

One of ruby's great advantages is that it's relatively low-maintenance - hard, tough and easy to keep looking its best.

How to look after rubies at home

At home, use a soft toothbrush, warm water and a few drops of washing up liquid to give your rubies a clean. If they are set in a piece of jewellery with other types of gemstone, check that these other gemstones are safe to be cleaned in this way first. Organic gemstones, like pearls, might be damaged if they’re submerged in water that’s too hot.

Take your rubies to a jeweller

It’s a good idea to get your jewellery professionally checked and cleaned every now and then, especially if you wear it frequently. While you’re there, ask them to check over the piece to make sure that all the settings are secure and they should be able to give the piece a polish at the same time.

How to look after treated rubies

If your ruby has been heat treated or lattice diffusion treated, it's usually still safe to clean at home as above. It should also be safe in an ultrasonic cleaner - though it's best to have a jeweller check it over first.

If your ruby has been fracture filled, it will need a little more care. The filler can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaners and certain chemicals, so just stick to a soft, damp cloth when cleaning fracture-filled rubies.

Things to avoid

Hot tubs and swimming pools: Your rubies should be fine with the chemicals in hot tubs and swimming pools, however, the metals they're set in might not be. It's best to be on the safe side and remove them before getting in.

Household cleaning products: Again, it's more the metal parts of your jewellery that are at risk of damage with certain harsh chemicals - but fracture filled rubies can be damaged by chemicals too. Remove your jewellery before cleaning.

Direct impact: While ruby is relatively hard and tough, a hard knock in the right place will still chip it - remove your ruby jewellery before heavy manual work or playing contact sports.

How to store your ruby jewellery

It's always best to store your jewellery separately in their own boxes, pouches or lined compartment of a jewellery box. This protects them from being scratched by any diamonds in your jewellery collection, and in turn stops your rubies from scratching softer gemstones and metals.

For more on looking after your jewellery, see our jewellery care guide.

Jewellery Care Guide

Ruby FAQs

Is ruby a good investment?

Most ruby jewellery is bought and worn for its beauty rather than as an investment. However, if you're looking for a ruby with investment in mind, focus on rare, fine-quality, untreated stones from a source such as Myanmar - you'll want a certificate from a gemmological laboratory to confirm origin and treatment.

Can I wear ruby every day?

Absolutely - ruby is both hard (9 on the Mohs scale) and tough, making it a great choice for everyday pieces, including engagement rings. Just remember to take it off for heavy manual work, contact sports and when using harsh chemicals.

How do I know if my ruby is real?

For a definitive answer, you'll need to send it to a gemmological laboratory.

Is a heat-treated ruby still a 'real' ruby?

Yes - heat treatment is a widely accepted practice and most rubies on the market today have been heat treated - including fine-quality stones.

What's the difference between a ruby and a lab-grown ruby?

They're chemically, physically and optically identical - natural rubies form in the earth over millions of years while lab-grown rubies are created in laboratories over a matter of weeks (and are considerably less expensive).

What's the most valuable colour of ruby?

A pure, vivid red with a hint of purplish-blue and strong, even saturation - this is the prized 'pigeon-blood' colour.

What's the difference between ruby and sapphire?

Both are the same mineral - corundum. Traces of chromium produce the red colour in ruby while other trace elements produce sapphire's many other colours (sometimes in combination with chromium).

How should I clean my ruby jewellery at home?

A soft toothbrush with warm water and a mild dish soap will lift dirt and grease and restore its sparkle. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners unless you know your ruby's treatment history - or take it to a professional jeweller instead.

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